Pestana Atalaia is a modern, spacious and well-maintained aparthotel, situated just off the Via Rapida, approximately midway between the airport and Funchal. Despite its proximity to the motorway, it is quiet. A stroll takes you to either a spectacular headland or a rocky cove where, in June, our only companions were fishermen and seabirds. Caniço de Baixo, with its shops, restaurants and promenade, can be reached by a 30 minutes walk or a 5 minute drive. Our fellow guests were Portuguese families, German hikers and English golfers/walkers, all apparently using the Pestana as a base, rather than a place to while away the day. Our room was cool, comfortable, clean and well-equipped, with a small balcony overlooking the garden and the sea. Breakfast was an extensive buffet, served in the pleasant dining room, and ranged from fruit, through cold meats and cheese, to eggs and bacon. Without exception, the members of staff were pleasant, helpful and efficient. In terms of additional facilities, the garden was small with nowhere to sit except by the pool, the shop was minimalist, only open on request, and the shuttle service to Funchal was by reservation and too infrequent to be classed as a true shuttle. These, however, are niggles. If you are looking for a friendly, unpretentious and reasonably-priced hotel, away from the bustle of a resort but from which you can easily explore the beautiful island of Madeira, then we have no hesitation in recommending the Pestana Atalaia.