Wadi Shab is a truly magical place that is made even more amazing with a little local knowledge. To get there from Muscat, no 4WD required. Head along the road to Sur and not long after Fins Beach, take a turn off (slipway) to the right for Wadi Shab or Tiwi Village - it is signposted. Head down under the road and turn left to go underneath the highway. When you come out from under the bridge, do not turn immediately right, cross this road and turn right immediately after it. Follow this road through the village and down the steep hill to the causeway. When you cross over the causeway, turn right and park under the highway.

Once you have reached here, you need to take a boat across to the other bank in order to walk up the Wadi. It costs 300 baisa (about 80 US cents). Try to have small change for this - you would be lucky if these guys carried change for a 10, let alone anything bigger. Check what time the last boat goes back - it changes with the season.

Once you are across, there is a long but rewarding walk ahead. Luckily there are lots of stunning pools to take a dip in along the way. In 2012, Red Bull held the finals of the Cliff Diving Championships here. Eventually, the walk kind of stops at the water's edge. There is just a rock wall in front of you and a beach of smooth rock to enter the wadi. This is where it is time to get wet. You will need a waterproof bag if you are carrying valuables and I strongly recommend water shoes of some kind.

Keep following the wadi upstream. There will be some climbing over rocks and up small gravelly waterfalls and some swimming. How much will depend on the current water level.

You will reach a rock wall in front of you and the wadi just seems to appear out of it. There are now only 2 ways to go - back where you came from - or through the wall. There is a crack in the middle of the wall. Go to where this "meets" the water. If the water level is high, it will be all the way up and the only way through is to swim under rock. This is without a doubt dangerous going in blind and one of my least favourite things. I won't do this. If the water level is low enough, which it always has been for me, you can "swim" under, with enough room to get your head through, so you can both see and breathe - a much safer option. You can use your hands on the rock to propel you through.

What do you do all of this for...? You are now in a cave with a waterfall. It is partially open at the top, so it is shady rather than dark and the locals have fixed a rope up through the waterfall so you can climb up and jump in. With so many other options further down river for jumping in or stopping in the shade by the water, this may seem like a lot, but it is truly beautiful.

Note: Take plenty of drinking water, sunscreen, hat and energy food. It is warm even in winter - especially if you are from colder climes.

But most of all - enjoy! And don't be surprised if there are some local lads around eager to show you the way!

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